Inle Lake and its elusive fishermen

A freshwater lake known for its leg rowing fishermen is one of the main attractions of Inle Lake.  The second largest lake in Myanmar covering an estimate of around 45 miles² with an average depth of 7 feet, it is located in the Shan State and is usually overlooked for Bagan and Mandalay.  Getting to Inle lake is easy but you need to remember that a stop in Nyaung Shwe   is the standard  way to reach it.

A walk around Nyaung Shwe will let you discover a few travel companies that arrange boat trips to Inle Lake.  Another option is to go directly to the docks and haggle with the guide or for an easy life, inquire in your hotel’s reception.  Most hotels have contacts and will arrange a boat trip for their guests.  Fee might be a little higher than the usual but if you are on a budget, the reception staff can find other guests who are interested and will split the cost based on the number of passengers.

Boats of various colours are docked, leaving early in the morning.  Water is hardly seen as boats zigzag their ways to go through the water hyacinths clogging most of the area carrying tourists to one direction and locals towards the opposite every morning.

As the floating plants disappear, you will see the enormity of the lake surrounded by beautiful hills undamaged by development.  A patch of green breaks the view and upon closer look, the floating garden boasts of various vegetable and fruits ready to be harvested.  The regular bumps and occasional splashes of water reminds you of the importance of this body of water to its people as a source of livelihood and food.

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Stuck!

 

Enjoying the fresh breeze along with the soothing sight of greens, the legendary fishermen of Inle Lake comes into sight.  The painstakingly unhurried movement of one leg around the oar pushing against the water and the other leg standing on the stead while thoughtfully observing from above through the weeds the presences of fish, the unhurried and somewhat hypnotic movement leads one to stare until distance swallows them from sight.

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A quiet morning.

Several minutes after, a huge billboard welcomes visitors to Inle Lake while the boat slows down and enters a sector through the main water thoroughfare with houses on stilts from both sides.  Looking around, these wooden houses on stilts remind you of typical neighbourhood residences with cars parked in the garage, only this time, boats sway along with the waves.  Boats carrying children in their school uniform, adults coming from the market place and teenagers driving to a friend’s place are just some of the scenes you will encounter.  A few of the wooden structures on stilts are converted into shops selling wood carvings, silverware, woven textile and scarves made of lotus plant fibres. These places are routine stops for boat-carrying tourists and unless you inform your guide, they stop at every shop there is along the way.

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All for show, obviously.

Another traditional stop is the Jumping Cat Monastery.  An old wooden Buddhist temple, it became known as the Jumping Cat Monastery because of the monks who used to train the cats into jumping through hoops, hence the name.  Nowadays, cats do not jump through hoops anymore but just lie down and watch the people as they look around the monastery.  Spend just a few  minutes here and have a look at the ancient Buddha images and the wooden hall that displays statues in Tibetan, Shan,Ava (Inwar) and Bagan styles.

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Another thing, before committing to the boat ride, make sure the that the weekly market is in the itinerary.  As my boat left the dock, the guide informed us that we will not be going to the market as it is very far.  To think that it was one of the main reasons I came.  Oh well, there is always a lesson learned in every adventure and this is one of those.

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Just an ordinary day.

A stop at the floating restaurant for a rest will give you a chance to observe other people visiting Inle Lake.   As I drink my traditional black coffee surrounded by the gentle waves lapping below, I see  tourists and locals savouring the chance to witness the quiet charm that brings people far and near to this place.  As the boat makes its way back and the weed covered water greets the weary visitors,  some will say there’s not much to see.  However, if one looks at the history and uniqueness surrounding Inle Lake with an open heart, there is unmistakeable beauty quietly waiting for one to discover and appreciate.

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