Bunaken: A Reluctant Return to Diving

Bunaken – one of the places a diver puts in his bucket list hoping one day it will become a reality.  Often described as a ‘diving heaven’ due to the rich underwater flora and fauna as well as the number of dive sites one can get lost in.  

After taking refresher dive in Donsol, Sorsogon, a trip to the open water of Bunaken is a big step.  Bunaken National Park is a marine park located in North Sulawesi, Indonesia.  It was established in 1991 and is a part of Manado, the capital of North Sulawesi. The usual route consists of a flight to Manado, picked up from the airport by your hotel or dive resort straight to the port.  The trip from Manado to Bunaken takes around 45 minutes to an hour depending on the weather. Bunaken National Park is famous for its ‘wall’ or the vertical coral reef that drops down to 20-50 meters.  

Certain areas are known for its strong current but a knowledgeable DM will make sure you are prepared, guided and safe.  As soon as you submerge in the water, you will be greeted with the wall on one side and be surrounded by schools of fish on the other side, even under you.  In 6 dives, I saw some mudskippers, cleaner shrimps, a giant moray eel, sea turtles, a school of batfish and triggerfish plus a lone barracuda.  Not included are the overwhelmingly diverse corals as far as the eye can see (from top to bottom as well).  

During all of my dives, a school of batfishes swam along with a few of my favorite, the Picasso trigger fish.  If in case you have a few batfishes swimming below you, observe how their fins move – it resembles the movement of flapping wings.  The sight of a barracuda below was startling so remember to stay calm and swim away.

Diving in December is not recommended.  The visibility is limited but sometimes Lady Luck would appear and make it better.  A colleague did some diving during March and it was clear as glass that he was able to take macro photos. Amazing sights are not only confined underwater but out of it as well.  

A downside is the trash from Manado reaches the island and is a disappointment as it seems as nothing is done.  All these trash spewed from the water in the morning is hidden behind the huge Bunaken sign can be seen once you go near.  Even during the dive, you will see some plastic bags thinking it is an underwater creature.  A clean-up would be a great project even for guests to take part in.